The form of the asymptotic depth-limited wind-wave spectrum. Part III - Directional spreading

I. R. Young*

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

16 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

The directional spreading of both the wavenumber and frequency spectra of finite-depth wind generated waves at the asymptotic depth limit are examined. The analysis uses the Wavelet Directional Method, removing the need to assume a form for the dispersion relationship. The paper shows that both the wavenumber and frequency forms are narrowest at the spectral peak and broaden at wavenumbers (frequencies) both above and below the peak. The directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is bi-modal above the spectral peak. In contrast, the frequency spectrum is uni-modal. This difference is shown to be the result of energy in the wind direction being displaced from the linear dispersion shell. A full parametric relationship for the directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is developed. The analysis clearly shows that typical dispersion relationships are questionable at high frequencies and that such effects can be significant. This result supports greater attention being focussed on the routine recording of wavenumber spectra, rather than frequency spectra.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)30-40
Number of pages11
JournalCoastal Engineering
Volume57
Issue number1
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - Jan 2010
Externally publishedYes

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